Ever since insider information leaked that British Designer Phoebe Philo was leaving her tenure at Céline in December after a decade of success at its helm, the fashion world went into a frenzy, posing the question: "Who's next?" Rumors swirled until the Business of Fashion released the headline in January 2018:

The world held its breath in anticipation of what was to come of the new brand's vision, navigating the mind of a mysterious rebel and proponent of unisex aesthetics, Slimane. Curiosity reached greater heights in August as Céline shockingly announced the removal of the accent from its brand name. This news was followed by the captivating debut of Lady Gaga at the Louvre, sporting a bag from the Spring-Summer 2019 collection, a sort of preview aiming to temper interest while the growing appeal in the brand's forthcoming transformation.

n his first interview with Le Figaro daily, Slimane revealed the secrets to the HÔTEL COLBERT DE TORCY renovation (the brand's Maison, built in the 17th century). Moreover, the expansion of the team in technical labs, recruitment for the tailoring team that was going to work on a menswear collection (a new line that Heidi aims to develop), and the reinforcement of the Atelier's Grand Flou (makers of evening dresses), which needed much attention. This news did not go without provocative as it instantly went viral, sparking intrigue to the upcoming transformation: "You don't shake things up by avoiding making waves. When there is no debate, is no opinion – the definition of blind conformity. "

At 8:30 pm local time on the 28th of September, the fifth day of Paris Fashion Week, confused guests exchanged last-minute theories on the night's show. Passionately waiting in spirited conversation, they're immediately interrupted by the sudden absence of lights and the appearance of a drummer-duo, whose march cemented the onset of a new era – "Slimane-o-philes." What follows is a moving mirror installation – a tribute to the age of nightclubs – with an open elevator revealing the first model down to the runway. A mini dress with a giant bow, imitating the sleeves, a veiled cocktail hat, and bold country-style ostrich-leather boots – all featuring the 80's fashion spirit. Paris La Nuit – is how Slimane has entitled his collection.

The show's atmosphere and all 96 Spring-Summer 2019 looks reflect the designer's aesthetics: his moves are familiar, reminiscent of Slimane's earlier career while working for Yves Saint Laurent in 2012. First came the abbreviated name (YSL), and then the Spring Summer 2013 collection in a renewed, completely reimagined way while keeping the commanding elegance of its predecessor Stefano Pilati. This act caused a stir, dividing the public into camps of lovers and those not too enthusiastic.

Reflecting on Celine's legacy, the hasty criticism of Slimane's past work from "Phoebe-philes" for what they call the "destruction of the brand's DNA" seems unjustified, as the brand's history began in 1945 while the brand's clothing line formed in 1967.

Designer Michael Kors, the first creative director at Céline from 1997 to 2004, Americanized the brand; from 2004 to 2008, Roberto Menichetti and Ivana Omazic gave it a European flare while constantly looking for the definitive style. Only with the arrival of British Designer Phoebe Philo in 2008 did Céline finally find its distinctive style. A mix of modern retro and lesbian chic, which, however, has lost its relevance and was holding the brand back from being the headliner of the fashion world in the days of fashion bloggers and influencers who quickly copied and spread Philo's signature style. Hedi Slimane, however, effortlessly changed the brand's stylistics with his debut collection and provocative fashion show. So should one join the mass indignation concerning Slimane's transformations, considering the adverse reaction to his radical moves of the past?!

For those still questioning what a Slimane era will mean to Celine, the answer is quite clear as it is expressed in his rebellious outfits, worn by androgynous models during the debut of his Celine Spring-Summer 2019 Ready-to-Wear ̶ Paris Fashion Week fashion show. The designer introduced menswear during the show, claiming the pieces also fit women.

In fact, Slimane was not as unique as one may think – even though he decided not to stick to the brand's DNA, following his signature aesthetics, did what he had successfully done for Dior Homme and Saint Laurent – he applied his ideas to the basic models from older collections, adapting them to the tastes of freedom-loving millennials, his core target group.

The men's line highlights are:
• Unisex two-pieces with
• High-waisted trousers mixed with white striped shirts and pointed-toe Derby shoes;
• Trench coats paired with black slim-fit jeans, a white shirt and tie, and Lucas brushedside boots;
• Oversize double-breasted jackets;
• Dolman-style leather jackets and trousers embellished with three rows of metal buttons;
• Rider jackets in black and white;
• Leather shirts worn under slim-fit jackets;
• Black and white striped cropped jacket;
• Fitted metallic crocodile-leather bombers that only differ from Saint Laurent's varsity jackets by a collar and pretentious choice of material;
• Wool varsity jackets with leather sleeves;
• Bombers with graphic prints in black and white by Christian Marclay;
• Wool trench coat;
• Safari-style coats;
• Vinyl coats;
• Leopard print coats and metallic derby boots; Leather jackets;
• Leather coats and metal-decorated derbies;
• Frock coat;
• Breton top coupled with a pea coat.

While creating a women's line, the designer considers three key aspects. The first: cutting the length. Skirts and dresses have become noticeably shorter. The second: embellishments. Sequins and metal buttons on bombers, dresses, and coats. And finally, making sexuality and the cult of the naked body – the brand's new philosophy.

The ideas the creative director used for both lines are derivative. The basics of any wardrobe, interpreted in the disco style of the 80s – are closer to Saint Laurent than to Céline. In addition, the collection has unique pieces that were not so reimagined, such as white shirts, footwear, bags, and sunglasses. Tiny veiled hats were about vintage elegance, reminding philosophy of the fashion house and a French grace, which was hard to notice across the other pieces.

The final drums at the close carried another symbolic meaning for the show – a farewell and reinvention for Celine within the brand's long history. A welcoming of a new hero, unbounded with bold elegance and accentuated refinement.

While the world struggles for originality in a time of mainstream, Hedi Slimane has stated pretty clearly: he will stick to his guns and keep delighting fans, regardless the brand's name.