The Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring 2023 collection during Paris Fashion Week was a bold and daring showcase of the brand's signature avant-garde aesthetic. While many moments leading up to the show caused an internet frenzy (like the attendance of American singer, rapper, and songwriter Doja Cat, shrouded in 30,000 hand-applied scarlet Swarovski crystals), nothing came quite as close to the controversy that ensued by the presence of three polarizing garments.

Strategically placed amongst a sea of masterfully constructed evening gowns, welltailored looks, and remarkable sculptural creations featured on the runway, it was a snow leopard bustier dress referencing a 1938 archival design worn by Shalom Harlow, a lion gown by Irina Shayk, and an illusive wolf coat worn by the legendary Naomi Campbell that took center stage and— one could argue, overshadowed the collection as a whole. Shalom Harlow & Irina Shayk for Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.

While some online critics praised the artistry of the reproductions, others accused the historic house of glamorizing the contentious act of trophy hunting. Whether that was indeed the intended message or not, one thing is clear, using the imagery of endangered species, such as that of the snow leopard and the wolf, in particular, is a sensitive and polarizing topic.

The ongoing debate surrounding animal imagery in fashion is not a new topic, and Schiaparelli is not the first fashion house to face criticism for their use of animal-inspired designs. Back in 2022, in honor of the Chinese Zodiac and the Year of the Tiger, Italian fashion house Gucci released the "Gucci Tiger" campaign, creating waves in their usage

of animal imagery for their ready-to-wear and accessories. Moreover, the collection's ad campaign featured an actual tiger that roamed the set. Liz Cabrera Holtz, wildlife campaign manager for World Animal Protection U.S., expressed, "Gucci is sending the wrong message by promoting tigers as pets and luxury items when they are wild animals who belong in their natural habitats."

However, the opinions of Gucci's use of animal imagery and that of Schiaparelli by leading animal rights organizations counter substantially. Whereas Gucci's tiger usage was seen as a promotion of domesticating these creatures of the wild as pets and a symbol of status in their ownership, Schiaparelli was met with admiration by groups like People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) who are known for their firm and often radical stance regarding the abusive treatment of animals in business and society.

So what exactly set Schiaparelli apart from others? The answer lies in Roseberry's direction centered on inspiration, sensitivity, innovation, and an eco-friendly yet masterfully technical approach. The collection is inspired by Italian writer Dante Alighieri's 14th-century epic poem Divine Comedy. More specifically, part one of his three-part epic, Inferno.

The three garments in question represent the protagonist and narrator, Dante, and his journey in search of heaven. Along his voyage, Dante's precluded by three beasts: a leopard, a lion, and a she-wolf.

In the show notes, Roseberry expressed, "What appealed to me in the 'Inferno' wasn't just the theatrics of Dante's creation — it was how perfect a metaphor it provided for the torment that every artist or creative person experiences when we sit before the screen or the sketchpad or the dress form when we have that moment in which we're shaken by what we don't know.”

In all, the show was nothing short of a masterclass in the art of Haute couture and a celebration of unbridled craftsmanship. However, one can’t help but feel for the Maison as the spectacular showing at Paris Fashion Week unintentionally forgotten by the presence of animal symbolism and replication.

Will this be a lesson for Daniel Roseberry for future shows? Maybe. But one rings true the fashion industry collectively must learn from brands like Schiaparelli and be more mindful in their utilization of imagery of endangered species, walking that fine line of admiration and not harmful promotion.